How to Keep Starlings Away from Bird Feeders

If you're wondering how to keep starlings away from bird feeders, the most effective approach combines feeder design, strategic placement, food selection, and behavioral deterrents. European starlings are aggressive, non-native birds that dominate feeding stations, often displacing smaller songbirds. To successfully discourage them, use feeders with weight-activated perches, offer foods they dislike (like safflower or nyjer seed), avoid platform feeders, and consider installing starling-resistant designs such as upside-down suet feeders or tube feeders with short perches. Combining these methods increases your chances of maintaining a balanced, diverse backyard bird community.

Understanding Starlings: Biology and Behavior

The European starling (Sturnus vulgaris) is a medium-sized passerine bird introduced to North America in the 1890s. Originally brought to New York’s Central Park by enthusiasts aiming to introduce all birds mentioned in Shakespeare’s works, starlings have since spread across the continent. Today, their population exceeds 200 million, making them one of the most abundant bird species in urban and suburban environments.

Starlings are highly intelligent, social, and adaptable. They travel in large flocks, especially in winter, and exhibit remarkable vocal mimicry. While these traits make them fascinating from a biological perspective, they pose challenges at bird feeders. A single starling can consume up to twice its body weight in food daily, and their aggressive behavior often deters native species like chickadees, finches, and nuthatches.

Biologically, starlings thrive in human-modified landscapes. Their omnivorous diet includes insects, fruits, seeds, and human-provided scraps. This adaptability makes them persistent visitors to backyard feeding stations—especially when easy food sources are available.

Why Keeping Starlings Away Matters

While starlings aren’t inherently harmful, their dominance at feeders disrupts ecological balance. Smaller, native birds may be unable to access food due to intimidation or physical displacement. Over time, this can reduce local biodiversity and alter natural foraging behaviors.

In addition, large flocks contribute to hygiene issues. Accumulated droppings near feeders can harbor bacteria, fungi (like Histoplasma capsulatum), and parasites. This not only poses health risks to other birds but can also affect pets and humans if feeders are placed too close to patios or walkways.

From a conservation standpoint, minimizing starling access supports native bird populations under pressure from habitat loss and climate change. Encouraging species like cardinals, blue jays, and woodpeckers helps maintain regional avian diversity.

Effective Feeder Designs to Deter Starlings

The key to keeping starlings away from bird feeders lies in using equipment that exploits their physical limitations. Starlings are larger and heavier than most songbirds, weighing around 75–90 grams. This trait allows for mechanical solutions that exclude them while still welcoming smaller species.

Weight-Activated Cage Feeders: These feeders close off access when a heavier bird lands on the perch. Models like the Droll Yankees Flipper or Squirrel Buster series automatically shut seed ports under starling weight, yet remain accessible to lighter birds like goldfinches or titmice.

Tube Feeders with Short Perches: Starlings need space to comfortably grip and feed. Tube feeders with perches shorter than 2 inches prevent them from landing effectively, while chickadees and nuthatches can still cling and eat.

Upside-Down Suet Feeders: Starlings prefer upright positions when eating suet. Upside-down cages require birds to hang headfirst—an awkward posture for starlings but natural for woodpeckers, nuthatches, and creepers.

Caged Feeders with Small Openings: Wire mesh cages with 1.5-inch spacing allow small birds through while blocking starlings. Ensure the cage fully surrounds the feeder to prevent side access.

Choosing Birdseed That Discourages Starlings

Diet plays a crucial role in managing which birds visit your yard. While starlings eat nearly anything, they tend to avoid certain seeds preferred by native species.

Safflower Seed: Loved by cardinals, grosbeaks, and doves, safflower has a bitter taste that starlings generally reject—though some may eventually adapt. It’s best used in dedicated feeders away from mixed-seed stations.

Nyjer (Thistle) Seed: Tiny and high in oil, nyjer is favored by finches but difficult for starlings to handle efficiently. Use in specialized thistle socks or mesh feeders.

Peanut Butter and Suet: High-energy suet cakes attract woodpeckers and insect-eaters. Avoid placing suet in open trays; instead, use enclosed or upside-down feeders to limit starling access.

Avoid: Mixed Seed and Cracked Corn. Cheap seed blends often contain milo, wheat, and cracked corn—ingredients starlings love but that most songbirds ignore. These fillers attract not only starlings but also rodents and pigeons.

Strategic Placement and Timing Tips

Location and schedule influence feeder effectiveness. Consider these strategies to further discourage starlings:

Elevate Feeders 5–6 Feet Off Ground: This height discourages ground-feeding starling flocks and reduces squirrel access. Mount on poles with baffles for added protection.

Use Multiple Feeding Zones: Place starling-resistant feeders in one area and a decoy feeder (with less desirable seed) farther away. The distant feeder draws starlings away from your primary station.

Limit Feeding Hours: Offer food only during early morning hours when native birds are most active. Remove feeders by midday to reduce prolonged starling congregation.

Distance from Cover: Keep feeders at least 10 feet from trees, shrubs, or structures where starlings can perch and launch attacks on smaller birds.

Behavioral and Visual Deterrents

In addition to structural changes, visual and auditory cues can help repel starlings.

Reflective Objects: Hang old CDs, reflective tape, or holographic scare rods near feeders. Movement and flashes of light startle starlings without harming them.

Predator Decoys: Plastic owls or hawks may work temporarily, but starlings quickly recognize stationary models as non-threatening. Move decoys daily and combine with motion devices for better results.

Sound Devices: Ultrasonic emitters have limited effectiveness. However, recordings of starling distress calls can deter flocks—but use sparingly to avoid disturbing neighbors or other wildlife.

Bird Spikes (on Feeder Roofs): Prevent starlings from perching above feeders by installing anti-perching spikes. This doesn’t harm birds but limits their ability to dominate the area.

Common Mistakes When Trying to Keep Starlings Away

Many well-intentioned bird lovers inadvertently attract starlings. Common pitfalls include:

• Using platform or tray feeders: These provide ample space for starlings to gather. Replace with caged or hanging designs.
• Overfilling feeders: Large quantities of exposed seed invite flock feeding. Offer smaller portions more frequently.
• Mixing incompatible seeds: Combining safflower with milo or corn negates repellent effects. Keep seed types separate.
• Ignoring cleanliness: Spilled seed on the ground attracts starlings and rodents. Use tray feeders with catch basins or place feeders over pavement.

Regional Differences and Seasonal Considerations

Starling behavior varies by region and season. In northern climates, they form massive winter roosts, sometimes numbering tens of thousands. During these months, persistence is key—expect increased pressure on feeders from November to February.

In southern areas, starlings may remain territorial year-round. Urban environments with artificial lighting and food waste see higher concentrations than rural zones.

Migration patterns also play a role. Some populations are resident, while others shift locally based on food availability. Observing local bird activity through tools like eBird or Merlin Bird ID can help anticipate influxes.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

While starlings are invasive, they are protected under general animal welfare laws. It is illegal to harm, trap, or kill them without permits in most jurisdictions. Focus on humane exclusion rather than lethal control.

The Migratory Bird Treaty Act does not protect starlings, house sparrows, or rock pigeons—three non-native species commonly deemed pests. Still, ethical birding practices emphasize coexistence and ecosystem balance over eradication.

Monitoring Success: Tracking Bird Activity

To evaluate your efforts in how to keep starlings away from bird feeders, keep a simple log. Note:

• Time of day when starlings appear
• Which feeders they attempt to use
• Native bird species visiting regularly
• Amount of spilled seed and cleanup frequency

After two weeks of adjustments, compare data. A successful strategy will show reduced starling visits and increased diversity of native birds.

Strategy	Effectiveness Against Starlings	Best For	Cost Range
Weight-activated feeders	★★★★☆	General seed feeding	$30–$60
Caged tube feeders	★★★★★	Small songbirds	$20–$40
Upside-down suet feeders	★★★★★	Woodpeckers, nuthatches	$15–$35
Safflower seed	★★★☆☆	Cardinals, doves	$10–$15 per 20 lbs
Reflective deterrents	★★☆☆☆	Short-term use	$5–$20

Frequently Asked Questions

Will starlings ever stop coming to my feeder?

With consistent use of deterrents, starling visits typically decrease within 2–3 weeks. Persistence is essential, as they may return periodically, especially in winter.

Can I feed other birds without attracting starlings completely?

Yes. By using selective feeders and unappealing seeds, you can significantly reduce starling presence while still supporting native species.

Are there any legal ways to remove starlings?

Lethal removal requires permits and is rarely necessary. Humane exclusion using feeders and food choices is both legal and effective for backyard situations.

Do starling-proof feeders work for other pest birds?

Yes. Many starling-resistant designs also deter house sparrows and grackles, though larger blackbirds may still pose challenges.

What should I do if nothing seems to work?

Take a ‘feeder holiday’—remove all feeders for 1–2 weeks. This breaks feeding routines. Restart with improved strategies and cleaner setups.